ELAINE WELTEROTH

Elaine Welteroth, the second Black editor-in-chief appointed by any Conde Nast publication, and the first under the Vogue umbrella, took the reins at Teen Vogue in 2016. Her impact on the magazine is undeniable as she introduced an understanding of the importance of politics to young readers. She is a multi-hyphenate who became a pioneer in the fashion industry.

While deciding what she would do in her life, Welteroth was inspired by Harriette Cole and her work in multiple mediums. After a phone call and a meeting, the former editor-in-chief and creative director of Ebony gave Welteroth her first magazine job at the publication. The second week on the job, she assisted a shoot with Michelle Obama. She worked her way up to eventually create and run the entire Beauty and Health department by herself.

She eventually made it to Glamour. This role motivated her to not play by the rules of white beauty standards placed by society and focused on more culturally important work. After only seven months, she was approached by Teen Vogue’s Beauty and Health Director, Eva Chen, to take her place. This role resulted in her being the first Black beauty editor under Condé Nast in its 107-year-history. Cut To: Anna Wintour promoting her to editor-in-chief, the youngest editor-in-chief at the time, at 29-years-old. A role she did not feel ready for nor felt paid enough to do as she was set with the task to gain Teen Vogue an online presence. This position was caused a catalyst of learning to stand up for herself and her worth, as well as standing up for others.

From the beginning of her career, and as she rose up the ranks, a deep realization about the importance of hair grew. Her cover that involved a baby-faced Imaan Hamman, Aya Jones, and Lineisy Montero that celebrated the beauty and success of these three young, Black women became the highest-selling issue, outselling their cover of Kylie Jenner. Beauty is a form of activism.

A story involving Zendaya that was inspired by Welteroth’s own trip to Rwanda where she got her hair braided as well as Zendaya’s previous experience with ignorant comments regarding the hair style she wore as she walked the red carpet, became controversial when the cover model, a fair mixed-raced woman named Phillipa Steele, was perceived as white by many readers. The purpose was to debunk myths regarding the perception of Black hairstyles, but due to the controversy proceeding its publication, it prompted a conversation on hair and skin color.

Welteroth learned there was no room for error and moved with grace as she addressed the situation. This was one of Teen Vogue’s stories that covered such a diverse topic culturally and introduce an intersectionality that many of its readers had not seen before. Welteroth stated in her response in 2015, “This sparked a compelling conversation on social media about race, representation, and colorism. For some, an image of a racially ambiguous model wearing an Afrocentric hairstyle is seen as reinforcement of a reality that dark-skinned women are routinely underrepresented in mainstream media.” It is important to have these conversations.

In 2017, Elaine Welteroth helped organizeas well as hosted the first ever Teen Vogue summit. The likes of Ava Duvernay, Chloe Grace Moretz, Rowan Blanchard, Amandla Stenberg, Yara Shahidi, and many other stars were in attendance and took the stage. Hillary Clinton was interviewed by a then 17-year-old Yara Shahidi. The message of the event was loud and clear: no matter who you are or how old, you can fight for social justice, and many do simply by being themselves. The event was followed by a dinner held by close friend and Brother Vellies designer, Aurora James. A toast was had to send off Welteroth on to her next adventure. With her efforts at Teen Vogue, Welteroth and her audience learned how to change the world.

She has stated that, “Teen Vogue is more than just a magazine.” Bringing representation to such a young audience which builds a confidence in those who have not previously seen themselves in the pages of the magazines that they devote their time to. Amandla Stenberg said, “You allowing me to see myself so authentically gave me permission to be myself.” Welteroth opened the door and gave many a look at how racism had colonized the way we think, through the art of fashion and with the power that came with being herself. In doing this, Teen Vogue experienced immense growth, proving the power of diversity.

In the same year she left her post at Teen Vogue, she went on to become a judge on Project Runway.

Her memoir, More than Enough, released in June of 2019 with a foreword written by Ava Duvernay the notable director of documentary 13th and films such as Selma and A Wrinkle in Time (2018). It covers her trials and triumphs as a bi-racial woman navigating her way not only through the world itself, but up the ladder of fashion. This is a recommended read for anyone interested in the inner-workings of the fashion world or needs motivation to just get out there and go for what you want.

Since its launch in 2021, her MasterClass on reinventing your career has empowered thousands to manage career changes. She teaches that if you want to do more than one thing, you absolutely can. You do not have to put yourself in one box and she is an example of that.

Now a mother and a known mogul beyond the fashion world, Elaine Welteroth exudes an authenticity that has brought her success and recognition. Her talent and spirit speak for itself and has touched a wider audience. She writes in her memoir, “My mission at Teen Vogue was to make young people whose voices had been marginalized feel seen, centered, and celebrated.” She did just that and continues to do important work that pushes the boundaries of what has been laid out before us. If we want to move forward, we cannot silence the voices that will move us.

Article by Seana Watson, Contributor, PhotoBook Magazine
Tearsheets by Jung Chou, Graphic Design Intern, PhotoBook Magazine

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